Hi vlog! Hello,hello! Today we are going to install the Coolerworx short shifter In the little Supra We are removing the original tripod on the V160 transmission But… It wasn’t easy to reach So we will jack down the trans a bit We’re now going underneath here but but this little tripod is in the way because the coolerworx shifter has it’s own it’s jointed around its own axis while original is jointed around this axis but…the new shifter will be mounted here like: that’s why the original is in the way so we have to remove it So we have to.. jump in here Here we have to remove this because the shifter will be placed here so.. it will be moving left to right, forth and back. We have to remove this bolt A bolt in there This.. and this.. I was thinking of removing this bracket here as well… So we will jack down the trans a bit to make it easier for us Thnx bye Now the bolts are removed And this little tripod is… ready to remove So now we just have the linkage left for the transmission And this part will be mounted in the shifter Here is a little taste of the coolerworx installation We had to drill up the hole… the linkage adapter since it’s M8 original And the shifter had M10 bolt so we had to drill up.. This one to M10 And now we’re adjusting The positions while shifting So we’re going to start with laying the shifter all the way back to the reverse There we won’t reach the 5th gear Then pushing it forward into the 5th gear When we’ve pushed it to the 5th gear we start to adjust here We screw this in so we have 5th and 6th gear here Then you just tighten this little insex screw up here So it’s stuck Then you’re doing the same on the other side And to lay the shifter in reverse you have to.. you have to push up this reverselock Now I can see that we’ve installed the little screw wrong It should be in the front hole but you get it! We’ve just installed it provisionally So we will fix it as well Yes we have to mount it right since you’ll be Send the gears like crazy in this son of a ***ch What have you here?? Ahh Tan-tan-tada! Tandara-tada!!!!! Big package Handle with care, what could it be?? I think I’ll hold on with it, It’s my package Matte has been getting some stuff all the way from Mora! Yeah, it’s a little bit bigger (Drive Shaft) There are some difference, do you have the old one left? (original) No it’s sold Yeah, right! Sad, otherwise we would’ve shown you For you who saw the oem one Would admit this is a lot more robust 3,5 inch Yeah, 3,5 inch as you say! Oooo More parts! Drive shafts! Anything else to say? Good to have! ”Good to have” Should we take the big piece in? Or you can take it yourself? No? No Some driveshafts and one piece of diff Nice grease I got two kind of gears to the diff In the diff there’s a 3:67 gear I also got a 3:226 gear beside This is brand new This gear is what I had in my old diff, but I’ll try the one that’s in this diff for now We drove quite long for this parts Yeah we drove to Mora yesterday It was like… 12 hours in the car or something I got myself a new drive shaft 3,5 inch It’s from PHR or something like that It’s quite easy, you just install it in the front and just… drag the other part out for easy installation It will be nice when we are going to mount it in the car again I also got myself two sets of rear drive shafts I also have my old ones home You have like 6 pieces then! Many ones to destroy! I’ll start to tell you about my engine in this episode Let’s start then Intake manifold from LMR It’s like a no-name manifold Billet milled in one piece 90mm throttle Seems like a nice quality on these stuff Really nice, great finish It came with a fuelrail So you got throttle intake manifold and fuelrail in the package I have installed my injectors 2400CC Siemens Deka 6 Pieces since it’s a 6 cylinder engine They are known to be very appreciated right? This injectors, or by people who… we’ve met who has been using this kind of injectors says that they’re great They’re costing a bit but they’re saying that they They are good And i don’t want to chance Then we have a….. Fluid Damper, down here I changed OEM flywheel to a fluid damper It’s like… One of the upgrades you should do When you are building a forged engine or do you mean generally? Generally, if the flywheel breaks It’s silly to buy a original 1000-2000kr maybe (107-214 dollars) It may be worth it , absolutely Then we have a Meziere Electrical Waterpump here It will be driven on the belt even it’s an electric waterpump Beacuse if the Wiring/electrical would fail I see it as a security to have it driven on the belt as well Even if I’ll have a… lot of lock ups… and warnings but Seems like security tho Comparing to SR20 this has a serpentine belt So iif the belt breaks… It will break to everything, yes I also have a…… Torque cooler, nothing speciall about it It worked good last year, and may be working good this year too I’ll go for 2 pieces 12 inches electrical fans They’ll sit here 3,5 inches intercooler That one is new! Yeah it’s new We’ve done some.. Brackets And brackets underneath of course I don’t have time to bend down here but you can see them here I like finish on my stuff so I have some carbonparts as well This one, if you can see This one in also carbon.. I’ll get carbon fibre for this one too It’s ordered I’m also going for a an exhaust manifold from …. Sweden Exhaust Precision 6870 I’ve talked about this … In another episode I’ll have Engine Gas Temp (EGT) on each cylinder Just because safety Some people may think it’s a waste to lay money on sensors.. for a big mount of money but as much money as you have putted into this engine it ain’t worth being poor with the sensors Better to put some 100 dollars (1000kr) by saving an engine for over 10.000 dollars(100.000kr) That’s why I think it’s worth it I’m running a… Tial Wastegate 44mm No, copy. It’s down here I had to buy it.. When I first hitted the dyno I had bought a Biltema (shop) And it was so damn good *sarcasm* Yeah people said that, ”Go for it” Cheap and good, they said That dyno was costing me.. So much more than it should have, if I had bought a real one from the start You learn by your mistakes Buying the cheapest, just punish you in the end It was because it got stuck (in wastegate) in the dyno the internal steering in the wastegate I had to buy one directly at the shop It’s this one That wasn’t fun But now you have a good one Yeah What else do we have to show….. Pressure sensor is assembled down here if you can see Yes, the little pressure sensor Oil pressure..
– Where do you have the oil temp sens? Oil temp sens will be installed in the oil pan Do you have an outlet for that in the pan or do you mount it in the bottom? Speeding (shop) had… I bought.. an adapter from.. what the h*ll was it… m12 or what it is in the pan original – adjusted to a 1/8NPT Aha! So you steal the oil plug And use the oil temp there Yes you rebuild it so it’s two in one I have a… 68°C thermostat( 154,4Fahrenheit) It’s down here I run this instead of the 82°C (179,6°f ) that I think it’s OEM Because I’m having my electric waterpump So I want the thermostat to open earlier Running my 3,5” drive shaft It’s the one we’ve shown you here also have a LSD diff, with carbon discs I can paste in description BIO Hmm what else.. The rear end is away for some sand blasting and powder coat I’ve bought adjustable links to the whole rear suspension from Japspeed So I can adjust toe, camber and everything Because now when I’ll go for a little bit more HP… Ahh.. it ain’t that much but.. Ehhh.. It is!!!! I think that a normal swede *ironic* would say it’s quite much horsepower Ye… I want to adjust the wheels to get the most grip It’s a splitted rear axle original and.. When you are lowering the car it will automatically give you a little bit of camber but if you go for adjustable links for camber and toes you can straighten up the wheels it can give you 0 camber which would give you the most grip Me and Pierre installed the CoolerworX shifter We can check it out Yes we can! I tested the shifter before and honstely… I have to tell you… I tried to shift with this stick and it was the worst thing I’ve ever done I think I need to train some arms Because it was like *sound effect* Like that To shift with it… I think it can be really nice.. You may need to go to the other side Yeah I can go around Now it’s assemblied Pierre helped me with this.. he sees.. this as a fun thing He always like to come here and help I think it’s fun to have a friend here who actually wants to … Learn and boost us up It makes it faster for us to work Yes! It’s assembled now it’s a quite short shifter on it Yeah that’s right, If I stand from this side and trying to shift It’s really hard, but if you sit over there in the chair
– you will get used to it I think that too You get the shift knob up high While sitting there and shift As you maybe understand this ain’t something you install on a original Supra Or well… You can but it’s a bit overkill… I’ve build a forged engine (2JZ) And I don’t want a twisted or broken drive shaft or that Or that the diff locks when you are driving.. because it can give you problems so I’ve thinking secure Why not upgrade? When I’m building forged engine.. Let’s talk about my engine then.. The head is milled, cleaned and blast It’s installed 269 forged cam shafts You can buy non forged but I wanted forged shafts The 269 cams are a step between 264 and 272 272 are really sharp cams
you can make 1000hp very easy The 269 that I’ve chose is for a better registry I’d rather have a good registry than just having ”ketchup-effect” and much effect generally That’s why I chose those cams There’s sitting BC Adjustable cam gears They’re underneath here Little candy HKS kevlar timing belt It’s also mounted Modded oil pump It’s a new one behind here Yeah, behind here It’s new, I think you are drilling up the port Or something The one who helped me build the engine did it How is it with valves and springs? It’s also updated What brand? BC Billet Timing Belt Tensioner I don’t exactly know why you change it but
I guess it’s stronger It’s sounds accurate It’s mounted ARP in the head OEM head gasket Between head and block?! I think it’s quite normal to drive it on these It’s quite fantastic Sorry for laughing But… I don’t think many engines can run oem gaskets In the bottom end I’m going for High Comp CP-Pistons Carillo Eagles I’m writing down my specs in description so you can read them It’s installed billet mains It’s a big thing about the bottom end actually Yeah the billet mains is hold the crankshaft Over about 800nm it’s normal that the main caps broke And will be loose That’s why I’ve chosen billet mains If you are building a forged 2JZ You should buy billet mains It’s a bit dumb to be poor on these 100 dollars How much money do we talk`? I think the billet mains is costing around 640 dollars You need to line hone and stuff So it’s a price around 1070-1290 dollars It’s understanding that people don’t do it but.. It’s a lot money but if you are blowing the engine because of your oem main caps If you’ve built an forged engine for 7500 dollars and you’re adding these billet mains for 1230 dollars Then you have like.. A safer engine You will regret if you don’t install it if something is happening Some people may think it’s only 1070 dollars extra (for nothing) But how much do you think it’s costing to build a new engine`? Yeah it’s actually true It’s wise words from Frazze It’s HD piston bolt to the pistons You get piston bolts when you’re buying new pistons from CP-Pistons But there are better one’s so I’m going for that It’s a VVT-i triggerwheel down here In the front of the crankshaft that reads the engine position The difference between original and VVT-i is that the VVT-i reads More positions than non VVT-i does So it’s common to change to a VVT-i triggerwheel It’s resurfaced and honed Modded oil ports in the block It’s standard when you’re building forged It was a great overview of your engine! There’s a bit extras that I’ve… I like details So instead of black AN-fittings I’m going for…
Gold I think it’s giving you a better impression Instead of having all black like everyone else You can add 0,5-1 dollar and get a really nice finish Yeah, me and matte is on our way to the garage Will continue the fight with my engine That’s been messing with me It has shown some life signs but I needs more than that I want it to idle by itself The ignition has been a mess but when we’ve been troubleshooting the wire And it seems good I’ve had some support by a friend, I’m grateful for that But there will always be those who will interfere in the wrong way but I think it will be good now I’ve bought myself a new CAS I didn’t got any home signal, only trigger in the oscilloscope If you measured out the wire to the CAS with a multimeter You got signal to both home and trigger So you’re just thinking.. what can the problem be? Electrically (wire) it seems good.. I also have another disc in the CAS It’s an upgraded disc, people have been mentioning it I knew it before as well, that you can buy this disc from an original to one with a minor amount of teeths Because of sync problems for example, that I’m having now So hopefully It will start up today We will try it out now If we’re still having problems our friend will try to come out The guys from Hypnotic has been amazing! Supportive It feels good It’s sometimes bad to have too much people here Now the CAS is assembled, it has to be 0. The CAS has to be 0 in according to the 1 TDC (0 on the engine) in the CAS there’s a line you have to line-up with to ensure it’s assembled right to the camgear Me and Matte will try to start it up now… Our friend helped us out and checked out the map(in ECU) Helped us in tables and shit Checked that everything was adjusted right and that looked good We will see how it goes I’m really excited! Are you? Matte? Yeah, hopefully it will start now Yeah! Let’s go!! (It started directly!!!!!!!!!!!!!) It started! 😀 😀 😀 Fuel? Exhaust wrap The SR20 is finally running! Thanks for all support!
Now it’s time for some exterior and smaller adjustments
In the engine bay! See you next week! Don’t forget to subscribe. like and comment to help us grow! ♥♥♥