Hello. In this video I will show you how I made this off-shoulder romper. I put on a looser t-shirt and marked with pins where I wanted the romper to reach. I folded the t-shirt in half and traced it. I widened the pattern so that the bottom edge was wide at least as 1/4 of my hips circumferrence. I traced the sleeve to the elbow. I marked the width of the bottom of the sleeve onto a new paper. At one side I measured 20 cm down at the other side 14 cm and I connected the points. I marked 4 approx. equally distant lines onto the pattern along which I cut the pattern but at the top I left few milimeters attached so that I could spread the stripes. I taped it onto a new paper, traced it and cut out the new pattern. I folded in half a high waisted shorts and traced the front side. I duplicated the pattern for the back side and extended the crotch by 5 cm. I added extra 8cm to the top edge of both front and back pieces. The bottom edge I shorthened by 5 cm from the outer edge. I used 1,5 m of this light weighed chiffon fabric. I cut 2 bodice pieces on fold. I cut 2 sleeve ruffles on fold. I cut 2 sleeves on fold. I cut 2 front and 2 back pieces of the shorts on fold. I sewed the back pieces together along the curve. Also the front pieces. I sewed the bodices pieces at the sides. I sewed the ruffles to the sleeves. I sewed the sleeves closed. I sewed the front side to the backside of the shorts together at the sides and crotch. I sewed the sleeves to the armholes. I serged the top edge. I cut an elastic around my shoulders and sewed the ends. I divided both bodice and the elastic into quarters. I connected the points and pinned the elastic to the wrong side of the top edge. I sewed it and stretched it while sewing. I folded it inside and top-stitched it. I folded the bottoms of the sleeves inside twice and sewed it down. I serged the bottom edge of the bodice and the top edge of the shorts. I slided the bodice over the shorts and pinned it together so that the top of the shorts sticked 3 cm out. I sewed it all around. Those remaining 3 cm I sewed down to the shorts leaving a gap through which I inserted the elastic. I sewed the ends of the elastic and sewed the gap closed. I folded the bottoms of the shorts inside twice and sewed it down. So this is the final romper. I hope you liked the video and see you next time. Bye! 🙂
Hey y’all, I’m Bonnie from Bonnieandblithe.com and today’s tutorial is a refashion tutorial which are so much fun Have you ever been wandering through a thrift store and grabbed a super cute top and just thought “I would love this if It were three sizes smaller”? Well, I did just that the other day and found this super cute collared polkadot top, but unfortunately it was two sizes too big What did I do? I got the sewing machine out and got to work you ready to see how to do it? Let’s go As you can see from this video the body was way too big and I wanted it to fit in the bust and waist I also knew I needed to take in the sleeves and cut them off so that I could wear it through the summer The first thing I did was turn the whole shirt inside out then I knew that I needed to take the sleeves off So I cut them at the seam line Once the sleeve was detached from the bodice of the shirt. I also cut the seam allowance off the sleeve itself You can probably skip this step if you’ll be cutting a lot off of the sleeve head later Next I cut out the seam allowance of the side seam of the bodice so that I could more accurately take it in Once that was done, I removed the sleeve and the side seam from the other side Next I needed to make a few adjustments to the bust darts. After trying the shirt on I realized that I would need to move The darts in about an inch towards the apex of the breast the excess of the outside of the dart would get cut off when I took in the side seam, I didn’t take out any of the fullness of the dart because I needed it here, but it’s the perfect time to do So if you need more or less, this is also a great time to adjust the width of the shoulder I took off just a tiny bit here because I have broader shoulders. But if you’re more narrow you’ll want to cut off enough So that the shoulder seam hits you correctly After adjusting the dart I then measured where I wanted my new seam line to hit and pinned the front and back together at the right spot I took in about an inch and a half on each side of the shirt After showing this new side seam, I trimmed off the excess material and finished the raw edges I used a serger here, but you can also use a zig-zag stitch This would also be a great place to refinish the bottom of your shirt if you needed to pick out some of the hem to redo the side seam In order to make sure that the new sleeve fit correctly, I measured my new sleeve hole on the bodice and made note of this measurement Then I took my sleeve head and marked it at this same measurement so that it would match the sleeve hole I did the same thing with the second sleeve and then I was ready to make changes to my sleeve head My next step was to cut out the underarm seam of my sleeves along this measurement I just marked I only did this about halfway down the sleeve because I knew I was going to cut it off into a shorter sleeve later After trimming off the excess under the sleeve I chose to recontour the curve at my sleeve head in order to get the best fit To do this. I just mimicked the curve of the original sleeve head. Just making the whole curve shorter Then I cut out the underarm seam of the second sleeve and cut a new curve for that one as well This was the right time to try the sleeve on and measure where I wanted it to end I left an excess of about three inches in order to form a cuff. I used the first sleeve as a template to cut the second so that they’d be the exact same length My next step was to sew the sleeves together along the raw edges of the underarm seam and Then it was time to put the sleeves back on the bodice. In order to do so I kept the bodice turned inside out and the sleeve turned right side out. I slid the bottom of the sleeve into the armhole first and then matched up the underarm seam of the sleeve with the bodice’s side seam and The fold at the top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam of the bodice If this is your first time doing this it might seem tricky but go ahead and rewind a few times until you get it I continued pinning all the way around the sleeve here and then sewed it together. I also finished my raw edges here with a serger And finally it was time to hem the sleeves remember I had pinned the sleeve in the spot where I wanted it to end so First I folded the raw edges up to meet that marking And then I folded it up again so that that marking was now at the bottom of my sleeve I decided to finish the raw edge of my sleeve with a serger and then Was going to tack down the top and bottom of the cuff to the sleeve But once I machine stitched the cuff together at the underarm seam I Decided I wanted a slightly more polished look at the top of the sleeve. So I chose to slip stitch it together instead Slip stitching is very simple and just involves hand stitching the sleeve to the inside portion of the cuff where it won’t be seen This might take a little practice if you’ve never done it before but you’ll get the hang of it soon enough Once that was done I knew that my cuff would hold both on the top and the bottom and the part that people could see looked really professional And that’s all for today thanks so much for watching Be sure to like this video and subscribe to my channel and let me know in the comments what other sort of refashion you’d like To see me tackle next. If you’re a thrift store shopper, I want to know what the greatest treasure is that you’ve found Thanks so much for watching. Bye!
Hi, I’m Jay from Real Street Performance. Today, we’re going to talk about engine sleeves, what different types there are, and why you may want them. So there are 4 common reasons that you would move into an aftermarket sleeve. Power level of the engine. The bore size needed for your build. A material constraint with the factory style sleeve and the aftermarket piston you’re trying to use. Or you damaged the cylinder and you need to replace the sleeve. In the realm of power level, the factory was considering the best balance between heat mitigation and cylinder sealing. They weren’t really considered about what happened to the engine when you doubled or tripled the power level. An aftermarket sleeve is a thicker build of material and the alloy loans itself to keeping shape under elevated combustion. So as you raise the power level with an aftermarket sleeve, the cylinder will stay round. And when you raise the power level with a factory sleeve the cylinder can distort or crack. During the rebuild process, you may want to go to a bigger piston to increase the displacement. Or you have to go to a bigger piston to get the right bore finish back on the cylinder wall for good sealing. Either way the factory block has the limitation of how big it can get before the liner gets too thin. In these types of scenarios, you move to an aftermarket sleeve. There are a handful of engines that don’t work well with the common 2618 aftermarket piston. These engines choose nikasil or FRM bore and the makeup of that bore and the make up of a common forged piston don’t react well. This puts you in a situation where you’re going to sleeve the block. Another reason for going into an aftermarket sleeve is you damaged the cylinder. It’s cracked, or you’ve dropped a valve, or broke a rod and that cylinder no longer has the ability to be fixed. And you have to put an aftermarket sleeve in to use that engine block again. So regardless of the manufacturer there are 2 different types of sleeves. There’s a wet sleeve and a dry sleeve. A wet sleeve, the factory cylinder is totally removed and this sits in its place. So now the water of the engine is directly against the sleeve. A dry sleeve is going to fit inside the factory cylinder. So the factory cylinder stays intact. You bore it out, and you press this in. It’s worth noting that there are a few advantages with a Darton MID sleeve. These sleeves are installed with an o-ring at the bottom. So the sleeve can be removed if needed. If you have a situation where the sleeves are epoxied in. There’s a couple things that are presented. It’s hard to get the sleeve out. So if you drop a valve, and you want to service the engine, getting the sleeve out if it’s epoxied in is going to be a pretty large task. The other thing is when you bolt the head on this, it’s kind of floating in those o-rings. There’s nothing that’s unnaturally loaded in the block. So you have less tendency to develop cracks. This is not a new design. They’ve been doing this in the diesel community for a long, long time. You would just pull the sleeve out when it’s reached its service life, and put another sleeve in. It also locates on the other cylinders in the block which offers some rigidity in the deck area. So overall, this is a pretty nice product. It also does a good job of keeping shape under stress, and has a good memory. This alloy has a good memory to return to size. If you’ve got the engine hot or if you’re overusing it, It’s pretty forgiving material. There are 2 different types of dry sleeves. One is a flanged performance-oriented sleeve and the other one is a non flanged rebuilder style sleeve. So if you’re in a situation where you just need to get back on the road, it’s not something that you’re going to triple or quadruple the horsepower of the engine, you can use the regular service sleeve on. If it’s a performance application, you’re going to use the flanged sleeve. While there are a lot of machine shops that can do this procedure correctly, you should understand that this is not something. that’s very simple. And it’s easy to screw up. Make sure that you’re dealing with a machine shop that has done a lot of this work. And they’re very comfortable doing this work. If you make a mistake during the process, the engine block will end up in the garbage. And you’re going to be out quite a bit of money. So make sure that the machine shop that you pick to do this is capable and comfortable sleeving your block. So in closing, I hope you come away with this with some information that will help you understand what the sleeving process is. What sleeves you should purchase. If there’s something that I covered in here that you still have questions about, you can ask in the comments or email me directly. Thanks. Have a good week