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Get rid of fret buzz FOREVER! common guitar setup problems and basic fret leveling

October 12, 2019

hey everybody how’s it going I’ve got a new video here for you for a repair and stuff and this is actually this is going to be two parts one part is going to be how to replace a volume or tone pot because the volume pot on this is going out and the second is all about fret buzz fret post fret but yes I’ve actually started to get a little bit on a couple of frets here and even though I have my other video up that tells you how to do set up and do your action and your intonation and all the other stuff which is right here I’ll put the lesson right here you can click on it covers a lot of stuff I still get emails and questions all the time about fret bus there like I’ve got fret buzz and on my first two frets or I have fret buzz only here or I have it on one string and you know all this other stuff what do I do so this video is gonna be based all about fret buzz in the next video is going to show you how to do the replacement of the tone pot I mean at um Papa the volume pot now this is not a Fender okay it looks like a fender but this is actually an old prototype that I built it was one of the very first necks prototypes that I built and I didn’t treat it with anything there’s there’s nothing on it at all and so as times gone by some of the some of the wood has swelled up I’m sure that that’s what the problem is and it’s it’s caused some of the frets to kind of get out of alignment now you might see that with something that is like untreated maple or with a rosewood fretboard that hasn’t been oiled or maybe oiled it too much or maybe you were one of those people which if you are shame on you or you use a toothbrush and water to clean your fretboard don’t do that ever ever ever bad bad bad but what I’m gonna do is I’m gonna go ahead and show you how to do all that stuff after I’m done I might even put a logo on here because this is this is actually really old but I’m going to show you that but before I can show you that we actually have to go over what causes spread buzz okay because if you don’t have an understanding of that there’s nothing out I can’t do anything for you you’ve got to know what’s causing it so I’m gonna get into pretty and you get into some detail here about what’s causing it and common things to look for now first thing I’m gonna do I’m also going to be doing a bit of other fret dressing and it’s going to be on this and yes the manufacturer’s name was removed to protect the innocent in this case the guilty and I’m going to do a little bit more fret dressing on that and fretboard care and everything to kind of help you as well because if you’ve got your strings off and you’re gonna do this you might as well do a write and do a full cleaning and all that they’re good stuff so anyway let’s go ahead and talk about what’s causing fret bus now the first thing you have to remember this is we’re gonna look at this this part right here okay this represents a string that has been hit and is vibrating down here would be the nut where it is connected and anchor and a bridge where it is connected the anchor now the string does not go back and forth or up and down it goes in an ellipse okay and during this time wherever the peak is the largest point of it is obviously going to have the most travel and when it’s spinning like this okay typically the most travel is going to be in the center that would make the most sense unless you have on like a bass or something where you have tapered strings then it’s going to be a little different okay well this ellipse will get bigger if the string is thick in other words on the low E and stuff like that are on bass strings you’re gonna see this ellipse get larger okay and also it’ll get larger if fear there isn’t a lot of tension on the string that will create a larger ellipse okay and also if you pick hard now when you pick when you’re holding when you’re holding your pick and stuff okay if if the string is getting here when you pick I mean this is like this you’re digging in you’re going it’s almost impossible not to have fret buzz even on a perfect guitar so you’re picking can also be one of the reasons for fret plus but if you pick like that you’re gonna also get in a larger lips and the sound of the strings is gonna sound horrible a lot of beginners do that but there’s also a lot of players that are just honestly they’re just too aggressive and no matter it doesn’t matter their action could be extraordinarily high and they’re gonna get Fred less because they they play so aggressively well anyway this is going to travel a considerable distance and if it travels a considerable distance and you only have a certain space between are the action heights between the bottom of the string and your frets this is probably going to hit a fret okay but it should be in the middle okay it should be in the middle of the string now let’s look at this look at this right here this would be a fret board these would be your frets this would be a string now you’ll notice down here let’s say that this is the nut and you’ll notice that there’s an angle okay and this particular fretboard is perfectly flat perfectly flat and some people say well you’ve got to have a little bit of a relief in it okay and a relief just means it’s got a slight forward bow slight but they want the main reason for that is so you can actually lower your action a little bit more because of the ellipse because you’re going to end up getting a slight relief here and it’s been so when it’s on an open string when it’s vibrating it’s not likely to hit that but you don’t have you know you don’t have to do that to have a low action okay if you do a really good fret fretwork and stuff like that you don’t need to do it but this is perfectly flat you’ll see this has got a slight angle to it okay the action is the distance between the bottom of the string and the top of the fret it always has been some people will say well the actions bottom of the string top of the fretboard no it’s not never has been second some people will say what’s your action height they’ll say it’s only one 64th of an inch or something you have to ask them well where are you measuring it from okay 12th fret 14 9 to work what fret and it’s once again top of the fret to the bottom of string one of the problems that I have been seen with the people on YouTube emailing me they say I’ve set my guitar up according to factory specs where they told me that I have to have so many millimeters or whatever it’s 160 fourths of an inch or whatever for action Heights I’m still getting fret bus what’s the problem problem is is you don’t look at what the factory specs are the factory specs are pretty much in a perfect world this will work but it doesn’t work outside of it it rarely does so what you need to do is you need to look at the factory specs as maybe this is a starting point I can go lower and I can go higher because let’s say you go ahead and you say that the distance is set from the factory specs and you’re playing it you’re not getting fret buzz but for your type of plane this actually might be too high and you can lower the action okay now I personally like the action as low as I can get it without fret buzz as low as I can get it there’s a lot of players like that but there’s also a lot of players especially ones that are used to playing things like Telecasters and fender Stratocasters that have a this is a radius if you were looking down the neck and these are the strings if you were looking down it this is the fretboard radius well a very very tight radius you know seven seven inch radius or it’s you know in other words when I say seven inches like from point here to here it’s seven inches and if you hold this and you go around that’s the curve you’d find when you have a curve like that if you do string bends like you start bending the string it frets out a lot which means you can’t really bend too much without the string just dying because it starts hitting some of these other frets well when you have a tight radius you get that and so they want the action higher because with the action higher it gives them a little bit more of an ability to do these bins and get underneath the string a little bit easier helps with the bins a lot okay something like an Ibanez guitar or a Gibson they’re typically Gibson’s are like 12 inches typically and then which is a little bit flatter and I’ve been as is they’re anywhere from 12 16 okay 16 is very flat and you can get some really good bins in there without a fretting yeah anyway so action height depends on the player because just because that’s the factory height that doesn’t mean that that’s gonna be right for you and it doesn’t mean that you’re not gonna get fret buzz it doesn’t mean any of that stuff it just means that this is the starting point and quite honestly it’s somewhat of an arbitrary number so I would ignore it okay instead you’ve set up the guitar for what the guitar is capable of and you get it as close as you can to your liking okay that’s the best way to do it no matter what brand it is so if this is perfectly flat and we’ve got this string at a slight angle going up to the bridge and we hit it and it starts having an ellipse because this is slightly elevated this is going at a slight angle that ellipse when it’s here you have more room here than here so it makes sense right you probably won’t get fret buzz as long as the action is high enough and the tension is right and the strings aren’t real real thick okay now there’s a few things that might happen on an on a neck these are very common the first is what is known as a flat oh that’s FB a front bow okay now a front bow is when the string tension is pulling the neck the headstock like this would be the headstock it’s pulling it forward and it’s causing the neck to bow like this this always gives you extraordinarily high action and it makes it where it’s nearly impossible to set the intonation of your guitar and all you need to do to fix this is a truss rod adjustment you just stick your your allen wrench or whatever you need for your truss rod into here and they need to tighten it or loosen it one of the things to keep in mind about these some brands go one way in other words it can only help you pull it forward but it can’t help you pull it backward and that sometimes happens even with string tension sometimes what happens is you get a back Bo back Bo’s happen because of poor choice in wood when they’re making the guitar that’s the number one reason a second reason could be it wasn’t really treated very well and it’s been in humid environments and then it got into dry environments and also other stuff so it’s losing moisture extraordinarily fast and if the back loses moisture faster than the top it’s going to contract and it’s going to bend backwards but most of the time that’s not the case most of the time the reason why it happens is because it was a poor piece of wood and it never should have been used to begin with but when you start buying these mass-produced guitars it’s one of the things that you’re going to have to deal with until you until you can actually look at the piece of wood and identify what is a good piece of wood or not and then that’s a different that’s a completely different video I have to go into when you get a back bow the string can’t go straight anymore okay in other words it the shortest point between two lines is always a straight line right between two distances straight line that’s what I mean can’t do anymore so what it does is it forces two string to lay on top of fred’s doesn’t matter what kind of action you have because at this point you don’t have any action or if you do you’ll have high action you’ll have normal action here normal action here no action here it’ll just be touching the frets if this happens and you have a one-way truss rod there’s very little you can do but you can you can go to my video where it says how to take a backbone out of a neck and you can try it and try to straighten it out and I know some people they don’t approve of my methods but I don’t care if they approve or not I know what I’m doing and you can trust me on that I really do know what I’m doing or so than any most be actually probably the majority of the people that that are luthiers but it does work does work now if you have a two-way truss rod okay if you have a two-way truss rod you can actually adjust a forward boat you can put a forward bow in it okay and more and more guitar companies nowadays are doing it because it only costs them a couple extra pennies to do a truss rod a two-way truss rod than a single okay so if you have that the idea is you want to start with a perfectly flat fretboard okay if you have that now how do you how do you get that how do you make sure that you have a perfectly flat fretboard well now what I use is and like every luthier worth their weight owns this or something similar and it’s it’s a precision ground straightedge now if you don’t have this you can use a metal ruler that you know is very straight okay but it’s got to be really straight okay and what you do is you take your you take your neck and you lay this on top of it and then you look down there and you try to make it where every fret is touching the top I mean every top of the fret is touching your straightedge you’ll be able to see gaps okay if you see a gap in the middle then you know that you have a forward bow if during the time that you’re doing this if it’s rocking back and forth that means you have a backbone okay make it flat as you possibly can if you don’t have a straightedge you can do like I showed in the other video or what you do is you get your you get your guitar and you hold down in this case I’m gonna hold down the 24th and i’ma hold down the first and then I’m gonna use the string as a straightedge and I’m gonna look and I want to I want to make sure that the string is not touching any of the frets but I want to make sure that there’s not that big of a gap there no more no more than maybe like a couple pieces of plate but piece of paper folded in half I don’t want them to touch the frets but at the same time I don’t want them to be far away from the frets if I’m using the string that way that tells me that my neck is fairly straight okay start with a straight neck do you still have fret buzz okay well if you still have fret buzz there’s a few other things that could be could be giving you a little bit of grief one of them this is a common neck problem I’m going through the neck problems first okay and then after that I’m gonna get into the fret problems is where it’s fairly straight and then alright maybe within the second fret or so you start having a backbone now in other words what it would be like is this you have your neck here it’s straight straight and right here is when it starts to back bow okay and I’ve seen that actually a lot a lot on guitars that basically have their little the name escapes me right now it’s a Ibanez does it give an Epiphone does it I think I can’t remember if Gibson does it but it’s basically where they end up cutting a piece of wood then they glue another piece on there and it it makes it where it makes it where they can kind of tilt it back a little bit right and it’s a special camera the name of the cut and I should I should know this as I hate it when it happens but anyway when you end up having that slice you can tell you’re gonna see it it’s gonna be curved like that okay but when you see that a lot of times you’re going to end up getting a curve we’re right there it starts kind of going this way which this gets a backbone the truss rod cannot fix that the truss rod can’t because the truss rod doesn’t go that far the trust the truss rod basically if this was if this is a fretboard it’s real working power kind of stops like here tops most of it’s right here it doesn’t have much here either because the majority of it’s right here in fact I’m gonna go get a truss rod so you can see exactly what happens when you turn it okay so here here is a two way truss rod okay and this is pretty much a standard length for like an electric guitar right here and you’re gonna see that this is this part you wouldn’t even see anyway okay so you have at least as much going into the first fret now this would you this is not a two-way truss rod that’s in here this is this is a one-way but if this thing is inside here you can tell the first fret I mean this this can’t do anything to the first fret but if I end up if I end up tightening this I’m going wrong way here I want to do it so you can see it okay so if I tighten that look at where the majority of the bend is okay you should be able to tell that it’s in the center that’s where the majority of force is going to be it’s gonna be in this area so it’s there’s really very little you can do here now if you do have a back bow right there you’ll know because what will happen typically it isn’t that problem everything will be straight if you have your straight edge and you put your straight edge on it everything will be straight then all of a sudden these two frets are gonna drop and when you go like this you’re gonna see a bigger gap between here and here and everything else will be straight that’s that’s a dead giveaway that you’ve got that if you have it go to my video on how to take it back bow out of the neck like I mentioned before and do everything inside there except focus here don’t focus here focus here on putting a forward bow before you heat the neck up and then that way when it dries and it cools off it you might have straightened it you might be lucky okay so that happens quite a bit and it happens a lot with HEPA phones and Squires and you know I’ve been asses and all that other stuff so that’s that you can’t fix it with a truss rod sometimes now this is this is not really drawn as well as I should have drawn it you’re gonna see this more on acoustics and sometimes on things like Les Paul’s but it’s it’s not really like this actually I don’t even know why I drew it like that it’s gonna be more it’s gonna be more along line something like this it kind of steps up okay so what ends up happening is it seems to be flat and all of a sudden the action here as much is much lower than the rest of the action and this happens because if you you know the the fretboard here the the fretboard here is glued to the neck okay and then what happens is part of the fretboard like lakefront acoustic we’re gonna use an acoustic okay part of the fretboard just kind of goes this way so what they do is they glue it on top on top of the soundboard okay like this and you know there’s a little bit of wood maybe underneath there there might not be but there’s really nothing to support this okay this is solid this isn’t gonna move but this doesn’t so what happens is when this when the body absorbs water and it dries out and all that other stuff this part of the wood is also going to kind of shift with it when that happens really there’s not a lot you can do depending on the size of the frets you might have to take the frets out and then go ahead and flatten the fretboard and put them the legree radius it and flatten it and then I put the frets backing you might have to if you know if it’s really affecting the play now when it comes to your neck that is the stuff that’s going to end up causing fret buzz the most now as far as giving your guitar a little leave now a little relief is really exactly a little relief very little so I mean if you had a straightedge once again and you put it on here the amount of relief that you would have would be like the thickness of this pic tops I mean tops between the string and the top of the fret very little relief you don’t need more than that if you start having more than that you’re going to create an intonation problem because what happens is if I push down here okay what’s going to end up happening is the string stretches a lot right here but as I move down here it doesn’t really stretch as much if as I start getting closer to the bridge it stretches tight again it there’s a lot more stretch well if you put a bow in this like if you have it over here you put a bow on that look how much that that strings gonna have to stretch in order to get Fred it out compared to what you do down here or over here okay so you don’t want too much of a relief okay I honestly don’t even care if I have a relief in mind as long as it’s perfectly flat that’s it’s either perfectly flat or if there is a relief there’s barely any and I never have I never have problems so we kind of went over strings a little bit if you have a thicker string it’s more prone to fret buzz than thin strings simply because the ellipse is much larger okay also if you tuned down a half a step you’re more prone to a fret buzz because you’ve released the amount of tension the ellipse becomes larger so you have to ask yourself hey if the reason why I have fret buzz is because I’m tuning down two steps and I’m using thick you know sine is 56 you know e string because if it is guess what there’s nothing you can really do about it except raising your action okay okay so let’s go ahead and cover what problems you can have with the nut in the bridge that might cause some fret buzz not to mention what caused what I call the sitar effect which usually will happen on the higher strings like on the high e B and G okay now if you’re looking at the site of your your guitar neck here okay and let’s say once again this is the fret board and easier frets and well this is the nut right here okay ideally you should have the string coming like this and it kind of goes back to something and if it doesn’t have a backing go like on a fender what they’ll do is they’ll put their string tees here to cause that angle you know because if the next like that okay well that’s the way it should be that but the distance between the top of the string and I mean the bottom of the string on the top of the first fret is critical it’s crucial okay sometimes what ends up happening is they end up going way too deep they notch it to beep so then what happens is the strings kind of like something like this okay now even though it’s not touching this the whole ellipse thing I was talking about earlier is gonna hit that okay so how do you fix it how do you fix too deep well first of all how do you know it’s too deep well what you do and I went over this inside the other video you push down on the third fret of that string and when you push down on the third fret it’s going to create an angle to the string right here okay you push down like that there should be a slight gap between the first fret and the string and when I say slight it should be very very slight okay we’re talking once again I mean I would personally think that even the thickness of this pick is too much you know I I would probably say a piece of paper folded three times it’s a good distance okay now some people say we want to use a feeler gauge and well yeah but most people don’t have feeler gauges so this is for people that are not really you know you don’t have your whole set of craftsman tools and you know you’re not an auto mechanic and stuff about three pieces of paper I mean to you know a piece of paper folded three times that thickness would be good for this for that distance okay now let’s say it’s way way high like this well you might still have fret buzz but it’s it’s gonna be for a different reason it won’t be the nut okay the number one reason why you’re gonna end up having a problem with the nut for fret buzz and it’s almost always going to be on the first two frets almost always up to the third tops but no more reason is because this is been this has been notched too much you see this a lot on cheap nuts like this one does plastic okay every time that you there’s tension on this and you tighten the string I don’t know if you notice but the strings got some texture to it right well you’re cutting into it and you’re making that that slot deeper that’s why plastic nuts suck but it gets deeper and deeper as time goes by and also the weight of it compresses it and it brings it just to entirely too low that could be it sometimes what happens if someone will replace the nut and the nut was just you know they didn’t bother putting new slots in because they didn’t know you needed to and but the nut was too small and so it hits and if that’s the case you have to shim it so if you see it happening with all and you know that your neck is straight that’s the first thing your neck has to be straight if you know your neck is straight and you’re still getting the buzz especially on a few of them you know you can either shim you can put a small shim underneath the nut on that one side or wherever it’s affecting it the most to raise it to the distance that you need or what you can do if you’re using a bone nut and typically it’s with PO nuts you take some you take some baking powder now I’m sorry with baking soda and you put it inside the reservoir like the little notch so you would put your baking soda right here and then you use fan superglue and you put a couple of drops in there and it’s going to hard real fast and then as soon as that’s done you take some sandpaper and then you try to even everything up and then from there you can read notch it to the depth that you need okay so this being too deep is the number one reason for that happening you can shim it you can do baking soda now if it’s too high you’re going to end up having an intonation problem and then the intonation problem is going to be like this everything’s set it says that the open string and the 12th fret are the same and you’re like cool it’s intimated but when you come down you plate open chords there’s certain notes that don’t sound right it always sounds like it’s out of tune the reason why is because your this is way too high and you’re stretching too much okay because you’re really cool I mean look at how closer you are to the anchor point here you’re really having to stretch that string you put a lot of tension on it so it’s important that the distance between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string when holding down the third fret is minimal and if you do that you won’t have any sharp notes when you’re playing your open chords now if you’re looking down through the nut okay down the neck and you’re looking at the nut you’d basically end up seeing something like this okay and this would be your high E and this is your low E like I said typically you’re going to end up seeing things like this where they’ve been ground too much because it’s a plastic nut or something and every time you tighten or loosen that string it’s actually kind of filing it and it gets deeper and deeper plastic nuts for fenders and stuff are pretty cheap they’re easy to replace you can always order one but they’re and even if they come slotted you’re still going to end up having to slot more than likely these to get them down to the depth that you need and they should be slotted to this precise thickness of the string so if you don’t you see this a lot to where you see it’s curved it’s not straight like these three it’s like it’s curved and then this will create problems with the way that your guitar sounds and like it you’ll lose sustain on open notes and all that other seven you can actually end up getting the whole sitar effect okay so how are you going to file these down well you can you can go to woodworking stores not Home Depot but like an actual woodworking store and they have different thicknesses of blades you can try that and then just maybe put some pieces of tape on that blade on the thinnest blade put a piece of tape on both sides put a piece of tape again and then maybe put a piece of sandpaper and then from there you use your use a micrometer and you test to make sure that it’s the right thickness and then from there you can just kind of sand it and then you can add tape to make it wider or you can remove tape to make it thinner that’s the cheapest probably way to do it and when I say sandpaper you don’t want to use anything much more than maybe 600 grit and that would be a little aggressive okay so but if you looked this would be the top you want to avoid this you want it to be straight okay if you looked at the side view and this is where the slots are like if you could see inside the slots this is bad okay you don’t want it to be straight because this could create the sitar sound this is good but you have to make sure that this angle here is the exact same angle of the neck okay it’s got that this should be nice flowing thing the direction of the string should be a nice flowing direction so that is what you want this is not what you want if you do this you once again you will have intonation problems you’re going to end up having the sitar sound and I think people know what I talked about because you hit that string go bring a boy and this weird sitar sound to it okay do not file or do any of your nuts like this at all okay it sounds horrible and you’re usually gonna find this stuff on the heii’s and stuff in the bees so the baking soda and superglue to fill it up you can use you can buy the file so if you want to invest the money you can go to a place called Stewart McDonald that’s on line you can order a file set might might set you back anywhere from 35 to 75 dollars but it gives you the files for the exact nut sizes I mean it string sizes that you need okay if you want to spend the money so you never have to send it to somebody else again you can do it yourself you can also buy premade nuts and you can also buy ones that haven’t even been used it so you can do it yourself okay so the nut if you’re going to get if you’re gonna get fret buzz because of nut it’s gonna be because of that it’s gonna be because it’s too low right here and once again you know you can shim up this side by putting something underneath there or you can fill it up with superglue and baking soda now as far as the the front this is would be the bridge and this would be like a hardtail right here where the strings coming through the body and it goes this direction you might get a little bit of the the sitar sound or it might sound almost like fret buzz or something if a because there’s two of these like if you look at the top of one of these okay like this is the spring this is where like the screw would be the string would actually come through like that and then right here would be the two adjusting nuts if one of these is not as tight to the base plate as the other one you’re gonna have this weird vibration sound and it’s gonna sound like fret buds even when it’s not fret buzz okay so you have to make sure that this is tight and this is tight now it doesn’t meet you know that doesn’t mean that Superman tight is just that should be snug enough not to move okay and they should be fairly even with one another so if you put your allen wrench inside there and one of them just like you know it’s like wow it’s able to turn three times before it hit the base plate that was what the problem was okay but it should just be tight enough that you know it’s like okay well that’s taut right you don’t want to because if you keep trying to tighten it it’s gonna raise and raise and raise and it’s going to raise your action and if you raise your action the the front buds will probably stop but then now you have a string that’s like an inch above your fretboard and that’s not that’s no good right well another thing that you could probably do because depending on how cheap the bridges are is after you have the string in push down right here like well I um push down right here alright and what it does is it kind of sets the string inside there so like if this was the case with these type you push down like that okay and what it does is it kind of forces AB in there and it prevents it prevents the string from really like shifting a lot back and forth inside there and it kind of helps with tuning and maintaining the tuning but your bridge the only thing that should actually ever affect whether or not you’re getting fret bus is the action height the sitar sound happens usually with Tremeloes the sitar sound happens with Tremeloes and it’s because if this is the guitar body and this is the tremolo okay and like let’s say that this is the these are the the saddles and it’s coming up like that it should be flat the tremolo should be flat and parallel with the body if you have a body like this and your tremolo is setting up like this okay and then the string comes up like that a your action is going to be absolute okay your intonation you’re never going to get it right and you’re going to get the sitar sound and the reason why is because it’s not this string is not really resting here right at the edge it’s going to be resting here because this thing is moved up so much it has to be parallel this happens when your springs back here are not tight enough okay so you tuck that’s what those screws are for back there tighten those bastards okay another reason why this happens is if you have a fender the the screws that are right here that anchor it down oh white keys right here just said light these these right there if you tighten those down too much it’ll force it to come forward as well okay so don’t over tighten those but the number one reason is because these Springs are not tight enough okay we’ve cover all this so now let’s go to the frets what would cause a fret to be the main problem of fret buzz now let me learn is something real quick and hopefully you’ll be able to see it when I show you here I’m gonna draw it first one and try to show it to you if you’ve got perfectly flat fretboard okay let’s say that these are their friends okay and let’s let’s say that they’re all exactly the same height they’re all exactly the same height there should not be really much fret buzz from this okay because they’re all the same height but what if one of the frets is like that okay you’re gonna have fret buzz okay it might even Fred out you might play it here and you only hear this note you might even play here and you only hear this note okay you’re like what the hell’s going on well and then the only way that fix that’s like you raise your action and all of a sudden now you can hear it okay but it’s because one fret is too high okay the dead giveaway is you get fret buzz you get fret buzz you get to a certain point and you don’t have it anymore okay that’s a dead giveaway another one is as you get closer to this fret you only hear this note so even if you held that the string down here you hear this note instead of this one okay that’s another dead giveaway that you only have one fret that’s out or something along those lines and typically it’ll be on two strings right two or more strings now one of the main reasons why this happens let’s look at the side of the fretboard here here is a slot these are fret slots so they cut these with the saw okay let’s say that those are fret slots and our fret if you could see it is shaped like this and there’s little barbs on it right here and they put it inside that slot okay and so we do something like this okay well what ends up happening is sometimes the fretboard if you end up having moisture leave and enter and all this other stuff like that with expansion and contraction everything like this sometimes this slot can enlarge okay another sometimes also because of excessive back Bo okay and it’s constantly pulling on it so it opens it up that could be another reason but sometimes what ends up happening is you have your fret slot here and then all now this is exaggerated the fret pops up like this okay and then when that happens believe it or not you take a hammer that’s got a round not a round face but a soft face it’s a flat face in other words you don’t take a framing hammer you take like a regular normal small hammer just tap it back in if it doesn’t go in you put some superglue and then you clamp it down so it stays there and when it super glue dries and you’re good then from there that might fix your that might fix your problem but more than likely you’re gonna have to do a slight recounting and re leveling of the frets okay typically this I don’t know if it’s going to show up I don’t know if you’re gonna be able to see this I mean I’m hoping you can because it’s slight but there’s a gap between the middle of these frets and the fretboard it’s very very fine it’s very little it’s hard it’s hard to see it but it is there okay and that’s on a few of that that’s on a few of these frets like like the this one right here is easier seen than the others and I don’t know if you can see that that would be a candidate for pounding it in okay and when I say pound it I should probably rephrase that to tap it tap it in tap it that again okay then from there you can go ahead use your straight edge to make sure that everything is still straight and whatnot okay after you have found you have your still two strings on let me get my mic this guitar has a couple a little bit of stuff it doesn’t make a difference whether this is actually accurate or not but you go up every fret okay when you hear the worst when you hear the worst fret buss like let’s say let’s say I’m getting it there or something okay well if I’m getting it let’s say I’m getting it here but not here and I’m not getting it there I’m getting it here it tells me that this this one is high so I take my little sharpie or my little dry erase marker and then I write write down which frets are high just like that so when I take my strings off I know which ones I need to focus on you do that of all the strings okay and as soon as you have that and the tension is off of your neck because you’ve taken all your strings off you use your handy dandy whatchamacallit here straight edge and you flatten that neck with the truss rod as flat as you can possibly get it and then from there you can go ahead and do what I’m going to teach you here in just a couple minutes and that is how to flatten all of your frets and then so you can wreak roun them and then from there you know that there’s no way that your frets are causing your fret bus at that point it has to be a setup problem okay if there’s only one fret there’s no reason to do that okay like if in other words like if you have four or five areas that are really crappy and it’s causing you to have to have really high action because if not you’re gonna you know you end up having a fret buzz well if that is the case where you have a bunch of them yeah that’s when you want to go ahead and see if the frets have been popping up out of the fretboard and you also want to see you know we get to go ahead and read level the frets but if it’s only one or two you know you go ahead and push it back in if that’s the problem or what you can do is just individually file down the fret okay and typically the fret wire is made out of a soft nickel alloy and it you know it it wears quite easy and so people that do a lot of bends you’ll see this people that do a lot of bends and stuff this area usually wears faster than the area it’s like over here or whatever and because they’re constantly going back forth back forth back forth and rubbing up against it and it’s slowly but surely compressing and sanding it you’ll also see sometimes people that drop their guitars or they play a lot there’s actually indentations from where they’ve been holding the string down on it and then you see these dips okay that can also cause problems with your frets and when you see stuff like that it’s time to either replace the frets or we level and I’m not showing you how to replace your friends because if you’ve never done it before you’re gonna it up I mean it’s almost guaranteed you might be able to get away with it you might be able to do it but the reality is if you’ve never done it before you should not do it okay you need to take somebody that actually knows what they’re doing and that does not mean you take it to Guitar Center you take it to a luthier that actually knows what they’re doing the people at Guitar Center do not and I know someone from Guitar Center right now is probably watching this getting angry but they can pounce and because I know I’m right on that so anyway I’ll show you how to do a single fret and then I’m going to show you how to do all the frets and then I’m going to show you how you can recruit him the best way to wreak Ramo is by a crowning file you can buy a cheap one on ebay for 20 bucks and it will work okay or you can spend a lot of money and get some fancy diamond ones like I’ve got but I do this for a living so I wouldn’t expect you to actually you know do that but you can buy a cheap crowning file like I said 30 bucks on eBay I’m not 30 at like 2025 well depends on here you go both right okay so let’s go ahead and start getting into the actual leveling of the frets how I do it how I know they’re ready for crowning how do I rebound how do I polish how do I clean all the others good stuff okay so I went ahead and I leveled the neck with a with the truss rod and now I’ve got my little sharpie well this is actually a dry erase but you can use either and I go and I put a coat on top of every fret the reason why I like using the dry erase it’s because if you accidentally hit the fret board it’s dry erase if it’s a sharpie and right now some people what they do before they they do a lot of this stuff is they tape off the fret board they’ll put tape everywhere that there’s not a friend you can do that I’m not saying you don’t but in this case I’m not I’m not gonna bother wasting my time with it but basically just kind of want to do something like this there’s also some people that before they do this they take the nut out I’m not gonna worry about that because I’m not teaching you how to become a professional luthier or what I’m doing some training teacher you can do this stuff at home with limited tools now the next thing you need and I know simpler oh my god I don’t have that you need to have some type of sanding bar that is also precision ground perfectly level okay now this one’s got an old sandpaper on it and stuff because I’m just doing it demo but I’m gonna end up using this piece right here and that’s good that what’s on the bottom there’s 300 grit once again this is for demo purposes this is not this is not to be exactly 100% exactly how you do it in like a real job like everyone actually do this for a loop if you don’t have a precision ground piece of metal like this you need to find something that is the equivalent and you know if you go to some like Home Depot and you buy a piece of oak or something that looks straight it might not actually be straight so you you know if you get like maybe something that’s a foot or two feet long a piece of oak that’s 3/4 inch wide but maybe an inch and a half can you maybe at home you have a piece of granite or you might have a piece of glass you can you can use some double stick tape put put the sandpaper on there that’s like maybe I would probably say no less than 220 grit but I would probably be willing to say 150 would be better and then you take your oak piece and you move back and forth on it until the bottom is perfectly flat well how do you know the bottom will be perfectly flat well take a marker draw on it when all the marker disappears it should be pretty flat but you’ve got to make sure you maintain even pressure on that piece of glass or on that that piece of granite making sure that you have a fairly flat now is it going to be as flat and straight as this no but it’s the best you can do with what you got right well from here now we’ve got this what I want to do is I’m going to place this and I’m gonna try to keep it as straight as I can on here and let me turn this so I can see what I’m doing here and what I want to do is I want to move keeping keeping a fairly even pressure I got to do it like this I don’t want to push down I kind of want the weight of this to do the work for me but in your case if you have a piece of wood you might have to put some oomph in it but very very light and all I’m doing is moving this back and forth and allowing a little bit of the sanding to happen and what I want to do is I want to see only the very very top of the frets removed where the ink was now let me see if I do this by doing that I want to let’s get close here you’ll see that the first fret for the most part all the way only on the low E right here everything else has been sanded slightly this is lower so this part right there is lower than this this one second fret is fine third fret is fine fourth is fine and we’re cruising down but look at what happens right when we start getting up in this area right this is low this one right here’s a low this one wasn’t even touched that’s really low this one was low but then all of a sudden look at it kind of starts back up again this one was low and that we can kind of keep cruising and seeing where it was hit and miss okay we want to we want all of them to look like this one like the second fret that’s how we want all of them to look like so I have to come back here and spend a little bit more time doing this and during the time I’m doing it I need to do all of the press not just the ones that are low because if not they’re not going to be even now one thing to keep in mind is if you did not flatten if you do not straighten your neck when you first did this with the truss rod you’re going to see none of these want to be touched they’re all gonna look like that you haven’t touched them this is going to be ground a lot that’s gonna be ground a lot this won’t be touched and judging by this right here it tells me mine was probably just a hair just a hair not straight but it’s almost it’s almost flat now I can tell and I have I have taken very little off that’s why I’m using three hundred grit now this three hundred grit is old so it’s probably equivalent to maybe 450 okay and looking at this now the only spot that I see a little bit of issue is here in here am I going to worry about this area because I’ll never hit that those notes that close to the end on the LOI but here in here those only two spots okay and they’re close enough that I don’t really have to worry about it because when I wreak roun it that’s going to take care of it okay now you might have to go much deeper than this see I mean as you can tell I barely took anything off of these frets at all okay anything off at all but there’s been some fret jobs that I’ve done see like that’s what I’m talk about like that little area right there there’s been some that I’ve had to take off a locked like on like double three times that amount because the frets are just so bad right and the fretboard was not taken care of correctly and it was an old guitar and it was just really bad the guy didn’t want me to pay to have Miri actually take out the frets and real level the fretboard and all that other stuff you wanted me to keep the frets in there yeah okay so this is minor okay and from here I can go ahead and I can start doing the recounting one thing to keep in mind is just like your the clock like your car and the brakes on it you can only turn your rotors or your drums so many times because they get thinner because when they turn them they’re actually like they’re like shaving stuff off the side right well it’s the same thing with your frets okay you can only keep shaving so much off before you start running out of frets these are kind of the these are kind of low I mean honestly but I can still get use out of them and I don’t really care so much but the the if after this after this fret leveling if somebody said well I need you to level again I would probably try it talk them into actually getting the frets replaced because that’s that’s a little low for me but and most people don’t like having frets replaced because it’s very expensive but as soon as that’s done you’re good now let’s say we only have one area that’s sticking up high okay not low but high how do you take care of it well you can use something like an emery board you can use a piece of sandpaper with you know wrapped around a small a small block of wood and you’re just working the top of it just like you would we did here but you’re only doing one fret okay opposed to doing all of them and leveling all of them if it’s only one of them that’s high and you’ve already made sure that it’s all the way into the the one you’ve glued it and all that stuff and it’s still high you can kind of go back and forth a few times make sure that you still use your sharpie when you see something like this go ahead and find your straightedge once again put it on there is it low enough or do still is it still Rocking okay if it’s still rocky do a little bit more you can always take more off but you can’t add more on so be very cautious when you’re doing that as soon as you get it to the level that you’re saying cool it’s perfectly level you’re putting your your straight edge on it everything looks great it was only that area here maybe one over here there might be an area over here so like you did something along those lines cool now we can start recounting I’m going to show you how to do that okay now the type of fretting files that you can you can get the rounding they look like this typically now there’s a piece that sticks inside here and for the life of me I don’t know where any are because I haven’t used this in probably like 15 years but they look like this they’re like 20 bucks when they come with a few different settings you can also get some that are slightly upgraded to something like this that have specific widths and grits inside there these are not diamond I don’t think now they are not my diamond ones are inside the shop but these will work for what we’re doing okay now just like we did before I’m only going to show you this on one because there’s no reason for me to do every fret and front okay just like we did before you want to go ahead and you want to put your your ink on there you want to put your sharpie on there and let me zoom in so you can really see what’s happening here because okay we’re will call that good okay the object here is to not touch the top at all because the top is perfectly level right so all we want to do is try to put a little bit of roundness back on the fret that’s it so what we’re going to do is we’re going to attack the sides and by attacking the sides I’m going to be actually holding my fret file at an angle like this okay and I’m just going to kind of go back and forth until I can tell I’m kind of carrying over into the top and then I’m going to come over on this side and then as soon as I see that both sides have been kind of erased right ideally I would still be able to see a thin black line ideally okay I’m kind of doing this adding a weird angle for you here but as soon as I see that I know that that’s rounded again because I took all the ink I took all that stuff that’s around it but is it perfectly flat I mean I mean is it smooth no it’s it’s not smooth and I’ll show you how to smooth it out and buff it here in a second by the way this is an emery board for those of you that were not raised around sisters and moms and stuff this is an emery board you get these like everywhere and then this is this is like one of the things that you could use to slowly file away and you can also technically you could use this as well to reshape the side if you don’t have a threading file okay you can use it I mean it’s kind of primitive but if it’s only one little area there’s no reason to spend you know 80 bucks and tools you know so now that that’s done there’s a couple ways that you can buff this the first is you could tape off between here so that way whatever do does not affect the wood and the first things you take steel wool you just go back board back and forth back and forth back forth okay until it looks nice and shiny okay that’s one way another way you can do it is you put your two pieces you put your tape here then you end up taking something like 800 grit sandpaper and you fold it up and you run your hand back and forth over it like this and by doing that every time it hits the side it actually is helping with that round over and then you only do that a few times and then from there you go up to a thousand grit then you go 1500 grit they need to go 2,000 right well and then it’s gonna look really really really shiny like it’s Factory okay umm if you have a dremel tool you can also use a dremel tool and some bucking compound you do that too one thing to keep in mind is if you are going to be doing the sandpaper going back and forth like this you’ve got to be very careful not to do it too much because then you’re gonna be lowering the fret right because you’re sanding a little away if you do it the same to all of them then you’re fine because you know the damage you did here it’s gonna be the same damage you did there or whatever but it’s important that you polish these because if not when you’re playing you’ll actually feel you’ll actually feel the threat kind of grab the string a little bit right and it’s uncomfortable sometimes if it’s bad enough you can actually hear it okay but that’s that’s all you’ve got to do for that then from here you can go ahead and put your neck back on I’m gonna do the rest of this later but you put your neck back on after everything’s nice and clean go to my video about how to clean a fretboard and take care of it and then that’s how you would clean it after as well I’m doing that so this damn thing doesn’t go out of focus with the autofocus all the time and that’s that okay so hopefully hopefully hopefully this long drawn-out thing has helped you with your fret buzz and you never get it again because now you know what causes it you know the most common things you know how to fix it now and worst case worst case if it looks like something you just don’t think you can do for the love of God take it to accomplish luthier so they can do it in in granted they’re probably gonna charge you a lot if it’s just a file if it’s just a fret redressing a level and redressing they might only charges 75 bucks or something right but if it’s you know a two or three thousand dollar guitar and it might be worth it if you’ve got something that’s a hundred dollar guitar two hundred dollar guitar is it worth investing that much for a real level when you could just buy a new neck right I mean think that you have to you have to think about that stuff but if the guitar means a lot to you and you’re willing to experiment a little bit on it and say well you know I tried it didn’t work now I’ll take it somewhere that’s fine because I mean you might as well get a little bit of learning experience out of the the frets you know before you throw them away right who knows you might get it right the first time but anyway there you go and the next video will be how to replace one of the tone or volume pots you


  • Reply Rayer Scarpensael October 19, 2017 at 8:50 am

    best video on the topic I've seen, thanks

  • Reply Mike October 24, 2017 at 4:51 pm

    Dear. Sir. I just. Have buzz. On my. Low E. And. A string , there is a buzz all over the neck . So could u plz tell me what could be the reason ? Other strings DGBE are perfect .

  • Reply Matt Evans November 2, 2017 at 3:10 pm

    I'm not sure how a tighter neck radius could lead to the string fretting out. Logically as you bend the string towards the centre of the neck would it not also be lifting it away from the fret board?, lifting the action a bit. It seems this would make it actually less likely to catch a fret higher up the neck? This is what I always thought anyway. Im not disputing you, just asking for clarification.

  • Reply ViviSectia November 3, 2017 at 9:18 pm

    Since superglue is a plastic, wouldn't putting it on a bone nut defeat the purpose of having a bone nut in the first place?

  • Reply totaltwit November 10, 2017 at 4:06 pm

    Very good, helpful thanks for taking the time and effort, I learnt a few valuable things here. I like to comment about fret removal, it seems easy but disaster is only a second away!
    It's always difficult finding a skilled luthier/guitar tech, they will all claim to be "expert" but not so. I took my new USA Strat for a tune up and it came back with heel scratches, a small point so the guy wasn't up to spec.

  • Reply Cochipit November 13, 2017 at 8:52 pm

    nice video! clear and presice

  • Reply The Lowmein November 19, 2017 at 6:09 am

    Lol I only have fret buzz on the third fret low g note, just that one spot only. Very frustrating

  • Reply Stephen King November 21, 2017 at 4:09 am

    This was a great video. Thank you! I was able to solve my issue with my setup causing me some fret buzz.

  • Reply eroticblack November 26, 2017 at 11:02 am

    you are great, sir! you def know what you are doing! A quick problem, if you have the time: I have a gibson SG custom with 24 frets neck, I'm getting a lot of buzz on the 2nd fret, on my high e & b strings. it's real bad, unplayable, (kindda like the sitar effect you talked about) like when you don't press the string hard enough, and it sounds awful. What should I do?

  • Reply John McClinton December 11, 2017 at 5:06 pm

    Lol, had to laugh. But you are right. The techs at guitar center arent the brightest crayons in the box.

  • Reply shakarocks December 17, 2017 at 9:39 pm

    I have a couple of necks just like that no name neck you are working with. Do you know from where they come? I'm thinking they are factory seconds from whoever makes Squire for Fender.

  • Reply John McClinton December 18, 2017 at 11:30 pm

    Most good guitars with a single truss rod have the channel where the truss rod sits is bowed. In other words the channel is deeper in the middle of the neck than at the ends. Mgs are finding out it's cheaper and faster to use a 2 way truss rod than rout a bowed channel which is made to fit perfect and sanded smooth and all that. It's just more economic to rout a straight channel that doesn't have fit so perfect.

  • Reply Brian Dietrich December 21, 2017 at 10:54 am

    Thank for the excellent videos Will!!!

  • Reply Darel January 15, 2018 at 3:01 pm

    Yep, that scarf joint sucks big time and it is advertised that it is more stable than a neck from a single piece of wood.

  • Reply Arthur McCay January 15, 2018 at 11:14 pm

    God bless you man! That is a really good vid. Now I know why my new guitar has this fret buzz. Thank you!

  • Reply Rocky McLain January 16, 2018 at 6:41 pm

    I set up my guitar myself for the first time and got it close. I wish I had seen your video first. Do you recommend buying a bone nut? After my set up I still have the strings touching at the first few frets when I fret the third.My strings are sitting down in the nut so I guess the nut is cut to deep.. 1500 for a fender and get a super crap set up, that sucks…

  • Reply Leonard Vaivada January 20, 2018 at 3:10 am

    Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh I see!

  • Reply Dave Barratt January 22, 2018 at 6:08 am

    I just learned more in one hour than in the previous 25 years of playing guitar. Anyone who gave this a thumbs down is a goddamn mongoloid.

  • Reply Miled Group January 23, 2018 at 2:48 pm

    Thanks a lot for your effort that give much information and induce a confident skill to repair a guitar fretboard.

  • Reply dieguetex diax January 25, 2018 at 4:08 pm

    i like that colours combinations, its a cute viola 😉

  • Reply Mersad S. February 2, 2018 at 1:27 pm

    I got something like a grounding issue on my guitar but i doubt! I've a Jackson KingV KV2 and when i connect it to my audio card, sound got a hum. when i touch a metal part of guitar (anything including wires, volume, tone) buzz disappear guitar sounds OK but the buzz making me crazy… i bought a multi-meter to check grounding issues, one probe on ground part of jack and another on the back of pots,bridge, wires and even pickup selector … it seems everything is OK but i don't know how it makes a buzz … can you help me please ? :(((

  • Reply Chris PC February 4, 2018 at 9:42 pm

    this guy is absolutely bang on, learn from him. anyone that left a negative, stick to air guitar. simple. excellent Thank you for taking the time . Wish I had this 20yrs ago. A lot of us learnt the hard way., Again. Thank You

  • Reply Jorge Cueva February 9, 2018 at 10:18 pm

    I think you should not pay attention on bad criticism. What I mean is that if there is criticism at all should be constructive. You should understand how you impact on people. I just followed your video and helped me A LOT. Thanks for the information and hope you keep providing valuable information. Thanks!!!

  • Reply baumfr February 12, 2018 at 12:02 am

    I love your video. But I love your idiosyncrasies even more. For instance, this is for people that don't have a feeler gauge, but do have a set of nut files.

  • Reply drummer4hire12 February 20, 2018 at 1:32 pm

    Tap it, dont pound it, son!!! lololol Great video!!!!!

  • Reply Adam Young February 22, 2018 at 5:37 am

    Outstanding Video!!!  Absolutely the one to watch if you want to learn!!  THANK YOU!!

  • Reply Jaro Ralph February 22, 2018 at 7:05 pm

    Lol he thought ur not allowed to show logos

  • Reply Kerosenetrewthe June 13, 2018 at 2:29 pm

    Great informational video! Thanks!

  • Reply Daniel Newberry June 20, 2018 at 8:39 am

    Man, really appreciate this Will. So damn blessed to have someone like you helping all of us out.

  • Reply Zoltán Falucskai June 24, 2018 at 9:27 pm

    thx pal for the brilliant description

  • Reply king cozy June 30, 2018 at 6:18 pm

    I don't pick.

  • Reply November Bees July 2, 2018 at 7:27 am

    great video, helped a lot and learnt more than i needed to which is always good!

  • Reply Think Bass July 6, 2018 at 8:30 pm

    WOW! This video was a big help…Thanks for the words of wisdom

  • Reply Mac Sixtyfive July 10, 2018 at 1:16 pm

    @44:01 ….Listen to the Man !!!!

  • Reply Jaryth14 July 16, 2018 at 5:05 am

    The only part of this I object to is, "If you've never done it before, never ever try it."

    I"m sure the intent was that if you haven't done it you shouldn't start with a guitar that's valuable to you, but the way it came off was that you should never ever attempt to learn.

  • Reply Bend Em July 21, 2018 at 11:32 am

    I can see too many adverts good intel 😎👍🏻🎸 apart from too many adverts 👍🏻

  • Reply LSDJ EST.2000 FUNHOUSE July 24, 2018 at 3:51 pm

    Hey man wats up new viewer had found u today and watched about 4 videos learned a few things surprised myself quite a bit cuz i guess i knew more than i thought and most of what fingered to b was oh sorry figuered to b was so that was nice anyway dig ur style dude thanks for the learnings think it would b awesome if made a couple of ones called how to b an individual ha jokes sorry that my comment wasnt veary long and proper or spelleded the correct i guess im not learneded that well good

  • Reply bram kuijper August 1, 2018 at 1:15 pm


  • Reply JaymzRG1003 August 24, 2018 at 9:57 pm

    God damn, thank you for this video, Will. Fucking GC and everyone else in my area want to charge me $125+. It's about time I learned how to do this myself.

  • Reply Wills Easy Guitar and other stuff August 26, 2018 at 5:03 pm

    be sure to check out my videos about guitar repair, restore, and custom builds here

  • Reply Wan Ducky September 7, 2018 at 9:48 pm

    Great vid, straight to the point and answered all my questions about lousy fret buzz on my SG. Subscribed for sure!

  • Reply October 18, 2018 at 2:05 am

    off topic, but your microphone is amazing. around 16:00 a motorcycle drives by in the back ground and i could have swore it was outside my own house. Listening with headphones of course.

  • Reply Everything October 29, 2018 at 6:10 pm

    That guitar is so ugly lol. But thank you for the video.

  • Reply JM AF November 10, 2018 at 8:56 am

    Love the colour scheme. Have always loved strats to play, but hate the way they look – they’re blooming ugly to me, particularly with a red or black body and white pick guard. I’ve solved the problem with mine by going black/black but yours is inspired! Not everyone’s cup of tea I’m sure, but so much better than a black and white monster.

  • Reply Bill Knott December 7, 2018 at 4:16 pm

    I'm watching the whole video in the background and finally got an ad around 45 minutes. I dont know if this information is useful. Thanks again Will

  • Reply Mendax December 11, 2018 at 12:49 pm

    good tutorial, keep it up

  • Reply Bgtip December 26, 2018 at 10:35 pm

    So I have this 20 fret acoustic guitar. It's new, bought a month ago. I changed my the strings on this guitar from 12's to 11's. And after that i keep getting buzzing at especially 10-11th fret, sometimes also on the 13th fret and it is only on the high E string. I've been trying to adjust my truss rod both ways because i havent had any result either with less or more relief. And whatever i do the buzzing is still there. Any suggestions?

  • Reply Hiram Torres December 27, 2018 at 9:52 pm

    Thank you for the hard work and great content.

  • Reply Bat Eats Moth January 9, 2019 at 8:06 pm

    what do you charge for these sorts of repairs?

  • Reply John Kelly January 10, 2019 at 11:24 am


    Cindy's Dad : Baking soda. Not baking powder. Because baking powder guys will have muffins growing out of their noses.

    Cindy's Dad : You love that joke, honey. You've loved it since you were two years old.

    Scary Movie 1

  • Reply Chandle r January 14, 2019 at 3:58 am

    Don’t tell me how to fucking pick!

  • Reply Koyote2e January 17, 2019 at 12:14 pm

    Bla bla colour bla bla bl..focus people ! This vid explain so thoroughly the answers to questions that the well known music store that I bought my American Tele from, could not be bothered in trying to know their products , nor simply saying they don’t know, instead they got out the book of ‘Baffle em with Bullshine’ to the point their answers actually did more harm than good, and I’m not talking about to the guitar. So thankyou for this so very much, ps bla bla colour bla lol

  • Reply John Kirk January 24, 2019 at 11:10 am

    I have a 2008 Gibson SG faded and I practically have fret buzz throughout the entire neck. The top 3 strings buzz even playing just open, my neck is pretty straight. The buzz doesn't come through the amp but I can hear it when the amp is even at like 80db. What do?

  • Reply The 72u7H February 4, 2019 at 11:21 pm

    what the hell is that guitar lol. Great vid but ahh that guitar is so busy haha

  • Reply Seabud February 13, 2019 at 8:25 pm

    Hi what do I do when I have a sitar sound on the high e of my acoustic and have none of the problems you have listed here. Played open it sounds like a sitar and it isn't hitting anything at all. Is it the saddle or nut both that is the problem?. Increasing the gauge of string doesn't help either. Thanks

  • Reply Ken Schmitt February 18, 2019 at 2:44 pm

    Yea that leverage thing is what Roger Sadowsky Guitars of Long Island New York uses. He mentions in a video how he adjusts for it when talking about his basses. Fascinating that the whole guitar industry starts off with a straight neck and it becomes bent by leverage even though you have a straight rod.

  • Reply angrybuzzy February 20, 2019 at 1:51 pm

    Great video. Thank you, sir.

  • Reply Robert Long February 22, 2019 at 12:29 am

    Thank you – – odd why anyone would thumb down … this was full comprehensive review

  • Reply James Miller February 26, 2019 at 2:07 am

    Great video , probably one of the best there is for fret leveling there is.

  • Reply HUUUUUURRRR March 11, 2019 at 2:53 am

    Thanks Will, this is the most informative and detailed video about this, and has given me the courage to try this out on one of my cheap guitars to kill some parts of the fretboard that "fret out" when I bend.

  • Reply Mark Lyons March 16, 2019 at 2:24 pm

    Great explanations, and being graphically oriented, I love the diagrams. Especially when you are drawing "on the fly" while talking. Very easy to follow along…

  • Reply Fabian Salomonsson March 19, 2019 at 7:06 am

    First step: Remove frets

    Congrats you now have zero fret buzz

  • Reply Hooman Puyandeh March 20, 2019 at 10:09 am

    I didn't know that I must not wash my fret board , but I accidentally did it. So is there any way to get rid of fret buzz?
    Because when I did that, the buzz became stronger. Please help me.

  • Reply DurdyClaude March 20, 2019 at 10:29 pm

    Thanks for taking me to school today teacher.👍

  • Reply janis vogel March 21, 2019 at 11:37 pm

    story of my life,after reaching certain age,no more action for you.

  • Reply Crixus The Gaul March 24, 2019 at 6:33 pm

    I have the nut too high problem on a guitar I just got in… not something I think I want to tackle on my own.

  • Reply Doober Knob March 25, 2019 at 2:31 am

    Would you consider making an abridged version of this? I want to fix the fret buzz on my guitars, but I don't have the attention span to watch an hour long youtube video.

  • Reply mccloysong March 26, 2019 at 6:10 am

    The pushing down of the strings at the bridge at 34:37 (and also the nut) is something that my friend René Martinez told me about, what he used to do for SRV when he tech'd for him. One gig, Stevie said he was having trouble staying in tune and René realized he had forgotten to push doen on the strings after he changed them that day. So he never forgot since.

  • Reply guns and guitars March 29, 2019 at 12:47 pm

    you're on the money ☆

  • Reply Trevor Soundas March 31, 2019 at 1:23 am

    some of the best playing guitars have a little buzz.

  • Reply Jean-Claude Van Damme April 4, 2019 at 1:21 pm

    Will…so I have this neck…it's twisted. Using a notched straight edge, I can see backbow on the Low E side and forebow on the High E side. I have tried to level to frets themselves to compensate for the situation. Any other suggestions?

  • Reply Al Bundy April 8, 2019 at 10:23 pm

    Thanks so much for taking the time and effort. Very Helpful. Best of Everything.

  • Reply Micah Buzan April 14, 2019 at 2:25 am

    Super in-depth and helpful.

  • Reply Danny Lee: Rocksmith April 22, 2019 at 4:55 am

    paper fold three times… is that the thickness of 3 sheets or 8 sheets?

  • Reply Danny Lee: Rocksmith April 22, 2019 at 5:05 am

    like your style of language…

  • Reply Harsha Bandreddi April 23, 2019 at 4:47 pm

    Featuring the ugliest guitar ever lol

  • Reply Za Z April 30, 2019 at 9:48 pm

    This is awesome because he is giving the order of things to do. Straighten the the fret board with the truss rod 1st. A lot of instructions dont give the order of the steps. Just use a fret rocker or crown and polish or adjust the truss rod. But they dont do the order of things. This is great!

  • Reply HK Guitar May 4, 2019 at 7:01 pm

    Great, Great tips and advice here, lots of knowledge and experience being shared.
    Thank You Will.
    Professional Nut files are pretty pricey, I've had good experience using round files designed for Torch and Welders. Was even able to locate these at my local Hardware store. Files are Size NO 6 – 26 Tip And File. Tapered ends, Aluminum Case. Designed for the cleaning of welding and cutting tips. Cost is usually less than $5, I've been able to get 2 or 3 uses out of these before they are bent up. Still though, I'm not filing nuts all the time so this is an economical alternative to a Professional Nut File Set.
    Would like to also add, your instruction/direction on what NOT TO DO is every bit as important as the correct methods.
    Great information on this channel, again, Thank You.

  • Reply Manolis Karagiannis May 14, 2019 at 9:01 am

    Thank you very much for a very thorough, detailed and informative video! This is extremely helpful! To collect all this information on your own, through different websites for example, would take countless hours. Then you would have to get through alot of headaches while you figure out what is right due to contradicting information and so on. Wish I found your channel earlier, subscribed! Oh and by the way, new SMS-signal: 🙂

  • Reply John Poper May 14, 2019 at 7:43 pm

    Dont do that! BAD BAD BAD!

  • Reply HappyOwl May 16, 2019 at 5:50 am

    Thanks dude, this helped me a lot. Physics of the guitar neck.

  • Reply Natasha m May 21, 2019 at 12:49 pm

    Thanks Mr Mackey.

  • Reply Benjamin Cox May 25, 2019 at 6:16 pm

    If you will have fret buzz when picking hard no matter what then how do metal players get guitars that play perfectly? That seems like a strange statement.

  • Reply Richard Brown May 30, 2019 at 11:09 am

    Thanks for the video. Getting fret buzz on the first fret. My cheap Ibanez has a very slight back bow.

  • Reply Bruce Cleef June 5, 2019 at 4:45 am

    That whole guitar needs replaced.

  • Reply dave himlin June 12, 2019 at 5:16 pm

    anyone have a inexpensive and easy to find option for using a totally flat sandingboard ?

  • Reply crab fuck Fag June 23, 2019 at 6:09 pm

    I want to eat your guitar

  • Reply NothingHereToWatch June 25, 2019 at 8:14 am

    i have 2018 squier affinity strat wich type of trus do i have

  • Reply James Ritchie June 25, 2019 at 7:51 pm

    A great way to exsplane it but if the neck is strat I use a quarter at the 12 feet low e and a dime at the hi e as a filler gauge

  • Reply 8D Fever June 26, 2019 at 2:27 am

    Wow wow god bless man

  • Reply BubbaSmurfingSon June 29, 2019 at 10:18 pm

    i learned a lot today

  • Reply 5starcomment July 8, 2019 at 4:21 am

    Very helpful…thanks…

  • Reply SKEPTICK July 9, 2019 at 4:13 pm

    so if i play aggressively i will always have fret buzz? reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

  • Reply Tim Ort July 31, 2019 at 7:19 pm

    Very useful video I would say I learned something but I actually learned a lot. Then missed half the video almost adjusting my trust rod on my acoustic. I went through your videos and didnt see any guitars done like mine. I would love to electrocute a guitar for you.

  • Reply Siren Savior August 9, 2019 at 11:02 pm

    So if my guitar has front bow am I tightening or loosening the truss rod??

  • Reply Metal Mix Concoction Experiment August 16, 2019 at 10:49 am

    Very good video. Thank you

  • Reply Don Earl September 11, 2019 at 1:58 pm

    297 people from Guitar Center disliked this video. 🙂

  • Reply Sean Hale Woodcrafts and Music September 24, 2019 at 6:55 pm

    Thanks Will. I have a question. I am new to working on my own guitars, but I plan on attempting my first acoustic guitar set up as well as fixing some high frets. Here is my question. I know you need to flatten the neck with the truss rod when the strings are off to check that the frets are level. After the strings are back on, should there be a slight forward bow? And if so, will the string tension alone usually take care of this, or is there usually additional truss rod adjustments to make the neck optimal?

  • Reply mike wright September 28, 2019 at 11:11 pm

    Your video helped me find the problem I've had with my almost 30 year old mercury series Washburn. It was my very first guitar that was mine. I was getting buzz particularly on the B string in two locations. I kept thinking for years it was an adjustment issue. I found two very minute indentions on two frets on that string, exactly where it was happening. I was able to level my frets out removing the indentions and NO MORE BUZZ. Thank you for making this. Going to have it playing smoothly now. It does need cleaning and some adjustments (action, intonation) but for a long time I thought it would never play right again

  • Reply Shaun mcinnis October 10, 2019 at 1:22 pm

    Good vid. A guide I kind of use when setting the nut height is that the distance from the second fret to the string "when the first fret is depressed" should be the same as the first fret to the string when riding directly on the nut. Nice to have it just a tad more though as it does wear a bit from tuning.

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