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BMW e30 m52 turbon talvihuoltoa. S04E03 Kasauksen aloitus

February 29, 2020


Welcome back to Sipa’s garage. Here nothing has changed since last video. The block is still dirty and filthy, but it’s at least now here at the garage. Waring in the engine stand. So we can start working with it. And we can start by cleaning out the cylinder bores. For you that don’t speak Finnish: Cylinder bore In Finnish is called “pytty” and trophy is also “pytty” in Finnish. Hopefully it is now clean enough to start the assembly. And first thing that I will do is to install these oil sprayers because I’m 100% sure I will forget to install these, if I don”t do it now. So these go in. Yeah. Oil sprayers are there and now I will remove the main caps. Then I will put it the new bearings and drop the crank on top of those to check bearing clearances. Are you trying to look something from the bolt box of desperation? Maybe not. What? At the bolt box of desperation? The small bolt for the flywheel dust cover is somewhere here, but no idea where exactly. I forgot that bolt once once and it made horrible racket there. This plastigauge starts to be quite dried up. Perfect! Tighter than 0.05mm Crank is there now and I did check bearing clearances. Those were ok. And I used some assembly lube for the bearings. Many of you asked what assembly lube we used in the Petri’s engine assembly video. And it was this redline assembly lube. And the reason we used this is just that nowadays motonet carries this on their shelves. And that’s the only reason why this brand exactly. Normally we just use oil and start the engine basically next day. but now it’s Christmas time and it probably will take many months before this engine will turn over first time. So that’s why I now use assembly lube because I hope it stays there longer than oil would. Because there will be long time between assembly and start. So that’s what I used. Then I also added this kirddlle,, Or girdle or what fucking strengthening plate this is. This is not commercial product. Or well. One online shop which is always absolute nightmare to find on google sells strengthening plate that looks something like this. Or corset or what ever. This thingamabob has like three million different names. But yeah I looked little bit the one they sell and then we did draw own one in CAD with help of my buddy. I just took measurements from the block and we did use those to draw this. And this is then laser cut based on that CAD picture. You could also water cut this on mill out something like this. What ever floats your boat. I had to made few of these holes 0.5mm bigger because some were slightly wrong place. But few 0.5mm bigger holes solved that and now it fits fine. If you want to get these done yourselves, I will put link into description to the CAD pictures. Take those to your local shop and they can cut one for you. There is also m50 version which looks different. Same kind as in Petri’s engine. So there is that CAD picture too. But now it’s time to torque down these. For alu block these are 20Nm and 70 degrees. If someone is worried about the length of the bolts, that are stock ones long enough. And at least in this m52 case, the bolts don’t need to be longer. Because m52 alu block originally comes with these strengthening pieces. And this isn’t that much thicker than the original ones. So stock length bolts work with this at least. Then the 70 degrees. And crank rotates nicely. Now that crank is there, it would be time to gap the piston rings and then install the pistons and connecting rods. But as I said in last video, I have some doubts that there might not be enough room for valves to open. The head I had in the engine is 100% working condition. But it has been previously warped really bad from overheating and after it has been machined straight, all the combustion chambers are different size. So lets see if I can find better one. I have hoarded lots of stuff here because of cheap. But nothing here is actually ready to be used. I still should have really good condition but empty m50 vanos head here. And I think it’s this one, so I’ll take that. First use this aluminium plate that has been machined straight to check if the head is as straight as it looks like. Between the cylinders is most critical point. I couldn’t fit 0.05mm feeler gauge anywhere so I think it’s fine. But as I said, this is empty head that is missing everything. So lets make some springs for it. I can then install the valves, the new springs and other stuff too. And for the slowest of you viewers, these loose springs will be used to check how much room I have for the valves to open. I dropped in one piston with the connecting rod and it comes pretty much at the deck level as I calculated before even starting this while thing. Lets see how many years it takes before my boys can come here and help with doing the bolts. Little helpers. Then I lifted over the head. I have there couple of 1.7 – 1.8mm washers, which should be colse to thickness of the head gasket when compressed. And now I can see nicely how much I have room for the valves to open. I also printed this degree plate so that I can get some numeric data for you to see. I also assembled the chain drive and the parts of the valve train that I need for this. Then open the notebook. And I can start rotating the engine around TDC and mark down how much room I have for the valves. Yeah. I have now measured how much room there is for the valve to open in different positions. And I came into conclusion that there is no way to assemble this engine with these pistons and connecting rods without making some deeper valve reliefs for the pistons. The intake valves require about 3mm more room and exhaust valves about 2mm more room. So that there is enough clearance. I will put those measurements to excel and see if that is really the amount I need to make those deeper. But that’s about how much. So I can’t continue this assembly any further now. But I also made check for the piston to wall clearances. I first took micrometer measurement form the piston. I think zeroed out our cheap bore gauge to that. I then measured how much bigger the bores are to see the clearance. Some of these are wrong here.. And I did measure 0.9 – 0.10mm everywhere. So that 0.09 – 0-10mm is slightly bigger than the 0.08mm what is was supposed to be. But I don’t trust those measuring equipment we have and temperature differences can also play tricks on me. But it was so close that I think it’s ok. So I can install the pistons, because I know that clearances are ok. I will now wipe some ATF to the bores and leave this block waiting here. And I need to do something for the pistons to get bigger valve reliefs for those. But this will stay like this and I will end this video. Ok, lets see few things that were left bit unclear from the first part. First how the pieces from the pistons could have ended to the bearings, because should the oil filter catch those. Well there is two oil feeds coming from the oil pump. This bigger one and this small one. The bigger feed goes directly here towards oil filter. So this goes to this opening here. And this smaller one goes here to this opening which I think is the return from oil filter. It goes to this big oil gallery here. It goes to the oil sprayers here. I can actually see on from behind here. Then these go to crank bearings also and to head from up here. So most of the stuff goes through filter but some does bypass directly to the main oil gallery. So it’s possible that there could be pieces in the oil that don’t go to filter but directly to engine. Maybe we now check oil pump to see if something has passed it or was it some other failure in the bearings. But it at least should be possible to have stuff go to engine without going through the filter. Because this smaller oil feed goes to main oil gallery which divides stuff for the whole engine. Then why there isn’t anything in the head, could be because it’s quite uphill here. It would be easier for the pieces to go to the bearings. There is the oil pump opened. There is the inner rotor of the pump. That is then the outer piece. There if you look really carefully. I will try to show that better. Different angle. There you might be able to see. There is a spot because something has gone through and left just tiny dent there. And if I rotate this. There is also spot where something has made a scratch. I have no idea if this shows to camera. But there is also mark there. And more scratches here. So something has touched that. And… Maybe something small there. That we did already see. There has been something that has gone through this. When I assembled this pump, those marks weren’t there. So something has caused those. Lastly I did took out the filter from the housing. And opened it. Hopefully it shows to camera but there is lot of small shiny pieces there. I’m pretty sure it isn’t as clear for the camera as it is for my eye. But there is lot of shiny metal pieces there. I we look carefully. I think that could be big chunk of the piston. At least different color than the bearing should be. What’s that. It’s piece of gasket sealer. Bit bigger metal pieces there. Again some sealer. But lot of shiny metal pieces here. Fuck, no matter how careful I try to be with the sealer, there is still always pieces of it in the oil filter. Well there is metal pieces in the oil filter so It’s not totally unreasonable to think that it’s metal pieces from the pistons that went to the bearings and caused the scratches. I think I will still keep that theory. That the metal pieces from pistons have caused the scratches because I can’t think any other place where those would have come. At least based on what I have studied.

36 Comments

  • Reply XimerTracks - Sub To Me February 21, 2020 at 1:02 pm

    Here before 100K subscribers. More content please. also, Let's be youtube partners (:

  • Reply neorec ormon February 21, 2020 at 1:07 pm

    hienot äänitehosteet! toivoisin pieruääniä lisää aina kun laitat öljyä, asennusrasvaa tai jotain muuta tuubista.

  • Reply Jani Halttunen February 21, 2020 at 1:26 pm

    Mukava kun tuuppasit taas pätkän. Pistele lissee vaan kunhan jouvat tekemään.

  • Reply realfeikki February 21, 2020 at 1:31 pm

    On näitä vidoita odotettu! 😁

  • Reply niksu February 21, 2020 at 1:31 pm

    Pyttyjen putsaus 😂😂😂

  • Reply TopiAS06 February 21, 2020 at 1:47 pm

    Millaisella kansipaffilla koekasaus suoritettiin?, haetko nyt lisää puristuksia kokoonpanoon?

  • Reply Ganik February 21, 2020 at 2:02 pm

    Пожалуйста, кто нибудь переводите на русский язык?

  • Reply Ganik February 21, 2020 at 2:02 pm

    Нихуя не понял, но очень интересно

  • Reply Antti Tahvonen February 21, 2020 at 2:32 pm

    Muistivihko 😂

  • Reply Joonas Einola February 21, 2020 at 2:44 pm

    Nää on kyllä aina yks nopeimpia klikkauksia mitä elämässäni oon tehnyt kun tulee Sipalta ilmoitus😎

  • Reply felix reinaldo February 21, 2020 at 4:38 pm

    Did you use m52blok? Or you gonna swap it into m50 iron blok? Since m52 were aluminium, or is it okay using aluminum blok with forged intrnal?

  • Reply YoureSoBad February 21, 2020 at 6:02 pm

    Ei sattuis olee kunnossa olevaa ahdintaa myydä?

  • Reply Yasnick Ramputty February 21, 2020 at 6:15 pm

    Hit the like button before watching haha. Long awaited video! Thx

  • Reply Dx4picco February 21, 2020 at 6:28 pm

    M52 blocks have oil squiters from factory?

  • Reply coffee and cigars February 21, 2020 at 7:08 pm

    Hey Pazi, nice video as always!
    when checking on the oilpump, where does the second smaller block-hole from after the filter actually connect to on the pump?

  • Reply aleksi karhu February 21, 2020 at 7:14 pm

    ootko kahtonu This Old Tonyn koneistusvideoita? 😀 Samanlaisia "hupi" pätkiä kun sillä omissa videoissaan.

  • Reply Niko February 21, 2020 at 8:22 pm

    Voi tulla hyvät pakoäänet tuosta ku on läjässä niin pääsee hakemaa uuden pytyn bimmerpartyiltä 😃 tuleeko vielä lukkoperä asiaa liittyen siihen e38 perän swappaamiseen?

  • Reply Earnest Bunbury February 21, 2020 at 9:05 pm

    Winter maintenance: September to May lol

  • Reply JuhaEerikki February 21, 2020 at 9:09 pm

    How your block is so clean, painted?

  • Reply pajakuokkala racingteam February 21, 2020 at 9:37 pm

    mä latoin redlinen asennus rasvan erilaiseen purkkiin missä on nokka ni helpompi laittaa.

  • Reply TuubiUser February 21, 2020 at 10:34 pm

    7:55 ei sulla kovin montaa kantta ookkaa näköjään joo, ja olihan siellä toki lohkojaki ku uuelleen kahto

  • Reply Elias Hämäläinen February 22, 2020 at 8:54 am

    Täytyy sanoo et nyt oli kameras hyvät asetukset ku mun mielest kuva oli parempi ku viime videos

  • Reply Tomi Hanhela February 22, 2020 at 1:35 pm

    "TÄ"

  • Reply cyre February 22, 2020 at 5:09 pm

    ei youtube tykkää sun muistivihkon kannesta

  • Reply rAIVOkone February 23, 2020 at 2:39 am

    https://youtu.be/mms2qFWoG1c jätän tämän vain tähän. Hyviä videoita edelleenkin tulee, seuraavaa odotellessa. 👌

  • Reply HELLOXD7 February 23, 2020 at 8:46 am

    ThisOldPasi taas ollu vääntämässä 😀 😀 😀

  • Reply MgBag February 23, 2020 at 9:29 am

    10:35 Demonotized! Love your content, really enjoying the little bits of humor you're putting in lately

  • Reply kujtek February 23, 2020 at 12:07 pm

    When you listen to intro music for 2 seconds and you already know that will be great video

  • Reply milen iliev February 23, 2020 at 3:55 pm

    Love your videos.
    Keep up the great work❤️

  • Reply Aaron Hussey February 23, 2020 at 7:55 pm

    I hit a deer a few years ago and decided to rebuild my e36 that I have owned for almost 20 years now. I've been rebuilding my US spec m52b28 and have noticed these reinforcement girdles mostly for the Aluminum blocks on Ebay from the UK. I would like to get some moderate HP numbers 500-600+hp range is there such a thing for the US spec block or should I not worry since it's cast iron?

  • Reply NTD February 24, 2020 at 9:40 am

    Hello, your videos are great. Our team liked your videos and would like to get in touch with you.

    Please email me at himanshu [dot] petkar [at] ntdtv [dot] org

    Thanks

  • Reply Henrik Karlsson February 25, 2020 at 1:43 pm

    Really like the videos, ceep up the good work.
    Where did you post pictures of the girdle, or do you have a file of it?.
    Regads

  • Reply soundseeker63 February 25, 2020 at 10:38 pm

    What does that griddle plate actually do? I've heard of those little triangular links but never seen them! – Apparently they are fitted on the M54B30 engine but I've not seen them on M50 or M52 variants…

    The "bolt box of desperation" made me 😀 – I think every mechanic has one of those! lol

  • Reply Markus February 25, 2020 at 11:12 pm

    Mukavaa pätkää jokaikinen kerta. Aina jaksaa katsoa ensimmäisestä sekunnista viimeiseen 🙂 Tulee sitten livenä Bimmereillä nähtyä joka kruunaa kaiken 😀

  • Reply A.Channel February 26, 2020 at 12:43 pm

    What thickness do you recommend for the girdle?
    Are you going to make a video showing the speeduino sequential injection?
    Thanks for all the videos I have learned alot about the M5X engines

  • Reply Tomas Skurauskas February 26, 2020 at 5:04 pm

    Great job, i'm slowly currently building m50b28nv and m54b30 turbo projects. Thanks for all the info you spend time to share it. I see you have some ms43 stuff on google drive, did you ever tuned ms43 for turbo?

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