Welcome back to Sipa’s garage. Here nothing has changed since last video. The block is still dirty and filthy, but it’s at least now here at the garage. Waring in the engine stand. So we can start working with it. And we can start by cleaning out the cylinder bores. For you that don’t speak Finnish: Cylinder bore In Finnish is called “pytty” and trophy is also “pytty” in Finnish. Hopefully it is now clean enough to start the assembly. And first thing that I will do is to install these oil sprayers because I’m 100% sure I will forget to install these, if I don”t do it now. So these go in. Yeah. Oil sprayers are there and now I will remove the main caps. Then I will put it the new bearings and drop the crank on top of those to check bearing clearances. Are you trying to look something from the bolt box of desperation? Maybe not. What? At the bolt box of desperation? The small bolt for the flywheel dust cover is somewhere here, but no idea where exactly. I forgot that bolt once once and it made horrible racket there. This plastigauge starts to be quite dried up. Perfect! Tighter than 0.05mm Crank is there now and I did check bearing clearances. Those were ok. And I used some assembly lube for the bearings. Many of you asked what assembly lube we used in the Petri’s engine assembly video. And it was this redline assembly lube. And the reason we used this is just that nowadays motonet carries this on their shelves. And that’s the only reason why this brand exactly. Normally we just use oil and start the engine basically next day. but now it’s Christmas time and it probably will take many months before this engine will turn over first time. So that’s why I now use assembly lube because I hope it stays there longer than oil would. Because there will be long time between assembly and start. So that’s what I used. Then I also added this kirddlle,, Or girdle or what fucking strengthening plate this is. This is not commercial product. Or well. One online shop which is always absolute nightmare to find on google sells strengthening plate that looks something like this. Or corset or what ever. This thingamabob has like three million different names. But yeah I looked little bit the one they sell and then we did draw own one in CAD with help of my buddy. I just took measurements from the block and we did use those to draw this. And this is then laser cut based on that CAD picture. You could also water cut this on mill out something like this. What ever floats your boat. I had to made few of these holes 0.5mm bigger because some were slightly wrong place. But few 0.5mm bigger holes solved that and now it fits fine. If you want to get these done yourselves, I will put link into description to the CAD pictures. Take those to your local shop and they can cut one for you. There is also m50 version which looks different. Same kind as in Petri’s engine. So there is that CAD picture too. But now it’s time to torque down these. For alu block these are 20Nm and 70 degrees. If someone is worried about the length of the bolts, that are stock ones long enough. And at least in this m52 case, the bolts don’t need to be longer. Because m52 alu block originally comes with these strengthening pieces. And this isn’t that much thicker than the original ones. So stock length bolts work with this at least. Then the 70 degrees. And crank rotates nicely. Now that crank is there, it would be time to gap the piston rings and then install the pistons and connecting rods. But as I said in last video, I have some doubts that there might not be enough room for valves to open. The head I had in the engine is 100% working condition. But it has been previously warped really bad from overheating and after it has been machined straight, all the combustion chambers are different size. So lets see if I can find better one. I have hoarded lots of stuff here because of cheap. But nothing here is actually ready to be used. I still should have really good condition but empty m50 vanos head here. And I think it’s this one, so I’ll take that. First use this aluminium plate that has been machined straight to check if the head is as straight as it looks like. Between the cylinders is most critical point. I couldn’t fit 0.05mm feeler gauge anywhere so I think it’s fine. But as I said, this is empty head that is missing everything. So lets make some springs for it. I can then install the valves, the new springs and other stuff too. And for the slowest of you viewers, these loose springs will be used to check how much room I have for the valves to open. I dropped in one piston with the connecting rod and it comes pretty much at the deck level as I calculated before even starting this while thing. Lets see how many years it takes before my boys can come here and help with doing the bolts. Little helpers. Then I lifted over the head. I have there couple of 1.7 – 1.8mm washers, which should be colse to thickness of the head gasket when compressed. And now I can see nicely how much I have room for the valves to open. I also printed this degree plate so that I can get some numeric data for you to see. I also assembled the chain drive and the parts of the valve train that I need for this. Then open the notebook. And I can start rotating the engine around TDC and mark down how much room I have for the valves. Yeah. I have now measured how much room there is for the valve to open in different positions. And I came into conclusion that there is no way to assemble this engine with these pistons and connecting rods without making some deeper valve reliefs for the pistons. The intake valves require about 3mm more room and exhaust valves about 2mm more room. So that there is enough clearance. I will put those measurements to excel and see if that is really the amount I need to make those deeper. But that’s about how much. So I can’t continue this assembly any further now. But I also made check for the piston to wall clearances. I first took micrometer measurement form the piston. I think zeroed out our cheap bore gauge to that. I then measured how much bigger the bores are to see the clearance. Some of these are wrong here.. And I did measure 0.9 – 0.10mm everywhere. So that 0.09 – 0-10mm is slightly bigger than the 0.08mm what is was supposed to be. But I don’t trust those measuring equipment we have and temperature differences can also play tricks on me. But it was so close that I think it’s ok. So I can install the pistons, because I know that clearances are ok. I will now wipe some ATF to the bores and leave this block waiting here. And I need to do something for the pistons to get bigger valve reliefs for those. But this will stay like this and I will end this video. Ok, lets see few things that were left bit unclear from the first part. First how the pieces from the pistons could have ended to the bearings, because should the oil filter catch those. Well there is two oil feeds coming from the oil pump. This bigger one and this small one. The bigger feed goes directly here towards oil filter. So this goes to this opening here. And this smaller one goes here to this opening which I think is the return from oil filter. It goes to this big oil gallery here. It goes to the oil sprayers here. I can actually see on from behind here. Then these go to crank bearings also and to head from up here. So most of the stuff goes through filter but some does bypass directly to the main oil gallery. So it’s possible that there could be pieces in the oil that don’t go to filter but directly to engine. Maybe we now check oil pump to see if something has passed it or was it some other failure in the bearings. But it at least should be possible to have stuff go to engine without going through the filter. Because this smaller oil feed goes to main oil gallery which divides stuff for the whole engine. Then why there isn’t anything in the head, could be because it’s quite uphill here. It would be easier for the pieces to go to the bearings. There is the oil pump opened. There is the inner rotor of the pump. That is then the outer piece. There if you look really carefully. I will try to show that better. Different angle. There you might be able to see. There is a spot because something has gone through and left just tiny dent there. And if I rotate this. There is also spot where something has made a scratch. I have no idea if this shows to camera. But there is also mark there. And more scratches here. So something has touched that. And… Maybe something small there. That we did already see. There has been something that has gone through this. When I assembled this pump, those marks weren’t there. So something has caused those. Lastly I did took out the filter from the housing. And opened it. Hopefully it shows to camera but there is lot of small shiny pieces there. I’m pretty sure it isn’t as clear for the camera as it is for my eye. But there is lot of shiny metal pieces there. I we look carefully. I think that could be big chunk of the piston. At least different color than the bearing should be. What’s that. It’s piece of gasket sealer. Bit bigger metal pieces there. Again some sealer. But lot of shiny metal pieces here. Fuck, no matter how careful I try to be with the sealer, there is still always pieces of it in the oil filter. Well there is metal pieces in the oil filter so It’s not totally unreasonable to think that it’s metal pieces from the pistons that went to the bearings and caused the scratches. I think I will still keep that theory. That the metal pieces from pistons have caused the scratches because I can’t think any other place where those would have come. At least based on what I have studied.